Garage - April    Bill Magnussen   Bills396ss@earthlink.net    (253) 891 8332


Alternator Upgrade

How many times have you been on the way home from a cruise in the evening and the headlights seem a bit dim, or going through town at an intersection with the turn signal on, it blinks once in a while?

  The problem comes from the 60’s and early 70’s alternators.  They are an Externally Regulated Alternator (ERA), which means that voltage output is controlled manually by means of a regulator.  In its day, that was great.  But over the years this has improved.

  In the mid 70’s Chevrolet came out with an Internally Regulated Alternator (IRA).  This new version is controlled electronically, which gives a more steady and constant voltage output.  ERA models did not put out a lot of amperage.  The highest was rated was a 63 AMP alternator.  The newer IRA models put out as little as 65 AMP, and a few manufacturers make some models over 100 AMP’s.

  Upgrading to a newer alternator is not a very difficult job.  When buying an alternator I will ask for a 78 Caprice with A/C.  This is about a 78 AMP alternator.

  Installing the alternator is no different than the one you pull off the car.  The large wire (normally red) goes to the back of the alternator where the (+) post is, (the stud with a nut on it). Wiring the new alternator used to be a little confusing and also required cutting of the factory wiring harness.  However Original Parts Group and Year One both offer conversion harnesses for this job.  Original Parts Group part # is 27555 and Year One part # is HU30.

  This makes it very simple to convert.  Plug in the adapter to the alternator and then to the harness.  Locate the external regulator (normally found on the core support on the drivers side).  Unplug the flat four-wire connector from the regulator and install the adapter to the connector.

  Start up the car and turn everything on.  Turn on the turn signals and watch them blink, notice brighter headlights and tail lights.  This also prolongs battery life by keeping the charge at a steady rate.  This can also be done without the harness adapters, but requires some cutting and splicing of the factory harness.

For additional information or tech tips contact the author!