Part II - STeering Linkage
Last month the front suspension was overhauled for a
nice smooth ride. Now that it
handles well, there is still the issue of controlling all this new handling.
Front steering linkage consists of inner and outer
tie-rod ends, tie-rod end couplers, idler arm, pitman arm and a center link.
Looking at these parts when they are being greased, you say well it all looks
good, however there are six sockets on the front that wear as time goes on. Each
one as it wears gets a little loose, when all six of these get a little loose is
where most of the steering slop comes from. The pitman arm is the only non-serviceable part of the
steering linkage, this attaches to the steering box and the center link.
The front steering linkage parts can all be purchased at your local parts
store. There is no “upgrade” for steering linkage.
New steering linkage at some parts stores do have different qualities,
spend the few extra dollars and get the better quality.
To change all of this linkage the “pickle fork”
will be needed again. If you are
doing all of the front-end overhaul at one time, then the tie rod ends will
already be off. If not, remove the
cotter pins and nuts and use the “pickle fork” to remove the ends. The center link end at the pitman arm will need to be
removed. The idler arm unbolts from
the right side (passenger side) of the frame.
Once this is done the whole steering linkage assembly can be removed in
one piece.
Place all of the new pieces (should have eight) on
the floor and assemble them. The inner and outer tie rod ends have a left and a
right hand thread. Assemble the tie rod ends into the sleeve and start them
within a turn or two of each other. The tie rod that has the grease zerk fitting
in the end goes into the center link and the one with the zerk fitting in the
bottom goes to the tire end. Put all of the rubber dust boots on the ends of all
the joints. Put the tie rod ends
into the center link and the center link into the idler arm.
Tighten the nuts on all of the ends to 25 ft lbs. and then turn tighter
to the nearest hole for the cotter pin and install and bend back the cotter
pins.
Once assembled, place next to old assembly and adjust
tie rod ends to get them fairly close to what was on the car. Install all of the
grease zerks.
Install the center link into the pitman arm first then
attach the idler arm. Install the
outer tie rod ends back into the spindle assemblies and tighten the nuts and
install the cotter pins. There are
two bolts on the adjuster sleeves for the tie rods. Tighten these bolts before
driving the car. Before putting the
car back on the ground be sure and grease all of the joints; upper and lower
ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, center link and idler arm.
Check around and find a good place to get the front end of the car aligned. Just as a tip, some of the bigger name shops are all computerized and cannot align your car. The computer will not go back beyond 1976, so be sure and check this out. Also, when our cars were made they came with bias ply tires, most of us run radials now and the alignment is a bit different and can be made to handle better. Once back from the shop re-grease the front end and wipe off any excess.
Now
go out and enjoy driving your muscle car!!!!!!!!
I have been asked a few times about getting this or that work done… who can do this… where do I go…I do a lot of this work. I do work on cars for a living and have done this for many years. And I have done a number of cars in the club.
Happy Cruising!!!
Hint from the Editor and many other members – Bill can not only answer your questions, he most probably can be the answer to your prayers! Check him out. His excellent work has been proven.)